Friday, January 22, 2010

For a beginner, what would be the best bow to buy for hunting that is not too expensive?

We need Details, How tall are you? How strong are you. What is your price range. What is your draw length. You should go to your local dealer and get mesured they will tell you what is best for you. Look to spend at least 300-350$For a beginner, what would be the best bow to buy for hunting that is not too expensive?
Buy a good used Hoyt Brand Bow. I prefer a full re-curve Bow myself without sights on it, because I shoot instinctive.* Mine is a 47lb.* Or buy yourself a Compound Bow.*For a beginner, what would be the best bow to buy for hunting that is not too expensive?
I agree with KaTiErOtHwEiLe...how old are you, how tall are you, what kind of hunting do you intend to do? Need to know things like that -- what works 'best'; for one thing doesn't always work ';best'; for everything else.





Go to a reputable Archery Shop, if you can. Stay away from places such as Wal-Mart and the other ';Big Box'; stores (Gander Mountain included) unless you already know waht you NEED; those places are more interested in selling what ';looks good'; or is ';popular'; than what you really NEED. At a reputable ARCHERY store (B'Wana archery in St. Paul MN; The Footed Shaft in Rochester, MN; these are only two examples in only one State - do a web-search for a store near you) they will help you find what you need, and not always at the highest prices; if they don't have what you need and/or can't get it, they probably know who does have it, and will not hesitate to reccomend that other place.





For a ';beginner';, I reccomend a light draw-weight (no more than 40 lb draw) recurve bow; ';strength'; is relative and subjective: A person who can dead-lift a car might not be able to draw back a 40-lb bow. A recurve bow is often more ';forgiving'; than other types, as well as easy to use and maintain; compounds may allow the archer to take a long time to aim, but recurves force the archer to learn and use good habits. Used equipment is always less expensive than new, and therefor less expensive to replace. The only thing which absolutely should be purchased new are the arrows: They have to be made to fit you (draw-length; this affects draw-weight), your bow (draw-weight) and the intended purpose (hunting, target, etc). Use the wrong arrows and you can ruin your bow -- or worse. All of this can be done at the archery shop (not at Wal-Mart). Any bow can be used to shoot an arrow -- but only a good quality arrow, made for the bow/archer combination it is used with, can be shot with consistent accuracy; without good quality arrows, even the best bow in the world is just another piece of junk.





There is a lot more, but not enough room here; if you have any questions, just ask. I'll do what I can to answer those questions.





Oh, and dca20033... It is not necessary to experience what you teach, but it is usually best to experience something in order to best learn it -- and be a better teacher.
I was 11 when I bought a Lil' Brave bow, killed a turkey from 83 yards with it too :) (Training arrows)

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